The proverb might be ‘all roads lead to Rome’, but in Osttirol, they all lead back to the Isel River. After all, there is no avoiding it if one wants to experience all the adventures this area of Austria has to offer. It certainly served as the current of my own trip, so this Osttirol itinerary has you explore the region by following the river in different ways.
Overall, it was a trip that reminded me why I first fell in love with the mountains as a kid, and I was beyond thrilled to embrace my ‘Abenteurlust’ (thirst for adventure) while getting to know this marvelous region.
Osttirol (East Tyrol) is a place to connect with nature while venturing off the beaten path, and once you have been there once, you will dream of returning there so you can get out there and explore more of the hikes, climbing routes, and other adventures.
I visited Osttirol as a hosted media delegate before attending Adventure Elevate Europe in Kitzbühel. Therefore, this article was written in partnership with Osttirol Tourism. As always, all opinions expressed are my own.
Why should you visit Osttirol?
Osttirol is an often overlooked Alpine paradise full of towering mountains, tumbling waterfalls, and the Isel River. Outdoor adventures await around every corner and in every valley, and as the result of the isolation of Osttirol after WWI, both local culture and nature were preserved while other Alpine destinations were altered by the progress of the 20th century.
By the time Osttirol had reestablished its connections, the region quickly understood the value of its untamed nature, and as a result of sustainable tourism leading to economic growth in the region, conservation and tourism work hand in hand. As such, the region is an example of tourism done right and it is obvious in the untouched nature, the free-flowing river and so much more – it is a joy to experience it as a traveler.
This itinerary has you explore different sections of the Isel River in different ways, and as you follow the river, the seemingly endless adventure possibilities unveil themselves. Walking along hiking trails that range from short hikes to long-distance hikes, you get to see the pristine nature, and activities like rafting and climbing will fill you with thrilling bliss. And of course, there is also the tasty local cuisine which is deeply rooted in the area’s history.
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Osttirol Austria Itinerary Overview
Have you read this Austria itinerary that focuses on Osttirol, and want to book your trip? If so, this overview is what you are looking for!
Where to stay: Hotel Moarhof, Lienz
Rent a Car: Munich Airport or Salzburg Airport
- Day 1: Lienz
- Day 2: Wild Water — rafting, hiking & distillery tour
- Day 3: Adventurous Mountains — Via Ferrata, hiking & alpine coaster
- Day 4: Hohe Tauern National Park — hiking
- Day 5: Buffer Day & Farewell to Osttirol
Austria Itinerary: 5 Days in Osttirol
About this Osttirol Itinerary
This Osttirol itinerary is based on my own itinerary and is ideal for nature and adventure lovers who are looking for a thrill in the summer months. However, it also includes a less sporty alternative for more thrilling adventures alongside suggestions on how you can extend the hikes mentioned.
Due to this, this itinerary will help you plan an active to sporty vacation in an often overlooked part of Austria. You should be in good physical condition if you want to do all the activities listed and for one activity, it is crucial that you do not have a fear of heights.
Overall, following this Austria itinerary allows you to do a little bit of everything the area has to offer but, of course, there are many more fantastic hikes and climbing opportunities that you can do if you have more time.
Day 1: Getting to Osttirol & Lienz
Even if you are already in Tyrol, it takes a while to get to Osttirol, so your first day should have a relaxed pace. Get settled in your hotel and then explore all the city of Lienz has a lot to offer.
Getting to Osttirol
Separated from the rest of Austria by towering mountain ranges, Osttirol is not the most accessible region and it takes a while to get there. However, it is this perceived remoteness that makes the time you spend exploring the area even more special, so the additional effort of getting there is well worth it.
If you travel to Osttirol by car via other parts of Tyrol, the 5.3 km long Felbertauern Tunnel is the fastest route. At the time of writing, the oneway motorway toll fee for this road is 13,50€ for cars. You can check the fees for other vehicles here.
The six closest airports are Innsbruck, Salzburg, Ljubljana, Venice, Vienna, and Munich. By train, all of them are around 3 to 6 hours away. Hereby, the journey from Vienna is the easiest, as there is a direct train to Lienz.
In some cases, as is the case when flying to Munich Airport, the travel time is significantly shorter if you have a rental car.
When traveling to Osttirol from Germany and the Netherlands, I recommend getting there by train. It is very convenient to take the nightjet (from Amsterdam or Cologne) to Innsbruck and then take bus line 960X to Lienz. Alternatively, you could end your journey on the nightjet in Wörgl and take a regional train to Kitzbühel from where you have to take bus line 950X. You can book both options via ÖBB.
Explore Lienz
Lienz serves as the perfect base for all kinds of outdoor adventures in the surrounding area, but it is also more than worth it to explore the city itself. Surrounded by mountains, colorful houses, and a long history, one can easily spend an entire afternoon or longer exploring the historic center.
While the first settlement near Lienz dates back to the Bronze Age, the city itself was founded as a walled burgum erected between the Isel and the Drau in the 11th century. Since then, a lot has changed and the city saw both times of prosperity and hardships which made Lienz the intriguing city it is today.
Sometimes described as the “Northernmost Mediterranean town”, the ‘Sun City Lienz’ undeniably has a Mediterranean flair that goes far beyond the palm trees on the main square. In fact, Lienz is the sunniest town in Austria.
However, its charm is obvious even on rainy days. As our guide said, “Rain is just fluid sunshine” and in that spirit, there is no denying that the low-hanging clouds on rainy days give the city a unique character and maybe even an element of mystery.
As you explore the second-largest district town in Tyrol, you will cross bridges over the Isel River, see remains of the city wall that surrounded the city in the 16th century, and see buildings like the Liebburg at the main square, which was built as residency of the counts of Wolkenstein in 17th century.
I recommend picking up the free guidebook at the tourist information so you can read up on the places you see. It includes a map and a walking tour route. If you do not want to explore Lienz on your own, you can also join the free guided tours. Every Tuesday and Thursday, the tour starts at 10 AM at the Osttirol Tourism Information.
If you want to learn more about Lienz, you can visit the city museum in Bruck Castle. Built in the 13th century, it is a Medieval knight’s castle that overlooks the city. During its opening period from mid-May to the end of October, you can learn more about Lienz, and the local history and art. The chapel inside the castle which is decorated with frescos is also interesting.
Closer to Hotel Moarhof, you will find the St. Andrew’s Town Parish Church (Stadtpfarrkirche St. Andrä). It is a 15th-century Gothic Basilica and the interior features elements of different epochs.
Combined with the church’s chapel which features war paintings by Albin Egger-Lienz, it is a building not to be missed if you are interested in art.
If you are planning an extended weekend trip, you should also not miss the weekly city market which is open on Friday afternoon & Saturday morning. Set up in the Messinggasse, it pays homage to Lienz’s heritage as the alley has a. trade history dating back to the city’s mining history when a brass foundry was set up in 1564.
While there are only 17 booths, they offer the best from the region, and as such, the ‘Stadtmarkt Lienz’ is the ideal place to sample local products and meet locals. If you want a drink, I recommend ordering a ‘Hugo Anders’ with rose syrup at the booth of the “Stadtmarktwirtin”.
Day 2: Wild Water
Day 2 of this Osttirol itinerary is all about the wild water of this region and in particular the Isel River. Starting out with a white water rafting tour, you then hike along a section of the Isel Trail before tasting the local water in a distilled form.
White Water Rafting
As previously mentioned, the Isel River plays a fundamental role when it comes to adventures in Osttirol, and in part, this is due to the fact that it is one of the best rivers for rafting in Austria. The river always carries a sufficient amount of water, but by law, the rafting season is restricted from May 15 to the end of September.
I did a rafting tour with Adventurepark Osttirol at the very beginning of the season and we were the first tour our guide led. It was not exactly a warm day and our guide jokingly said “If you’re cold, you’re not paddling strong enough”, but they gave us the thicker canyoning suits instead of the regular rafting wetsuits. As such, you do not have to worry about potentially colder temperatures.
Once we had donned the rafting equipment, we received a detailed safety briefing at the park and then, after a short minibus ride, it was time to brave the rapids.
We opted for the ‘Sport Tour’, and I started out sitting in the back as it was my first time rafting. After passing the most intense rapids, we switched spots and I got to sit in the front with water splashing into my face with every rapid. It was a blast.
Near the end, we could slip into the river and float with our legs beneath the raft. I highly recommend doing so if your guide allows it.
Once back at the Adventurepark, you can grab a bite at the restaurant on site. I recommend the Kässspätzle, but the burgers are also tasty.
Useful Information
You can currently choose between 2 routes (usually it is 3, but as the river changes every year, the intensity of one route has changed):
Sport Tour: a demanding 10 km long rafting tour that includes class 4 rapids — Huben Kalserbach to Ainet AdventurePark — 55€ adults; 45€ children (10-15 years)
Adventure Tour ‘First Step Tour’: a more relaxed rafting tour that is suitable for children over 6 — Ainet AdventurePark to Lienz — 45€ for adults; 35€ for children (6-15 years)
Requirements: You have to be able to swim. Bring swimwear and a towel, the rest is provided.
Book your rafting tour here. If you want to, you can also combine it with a canyoning tour.
Isel Trail
There are 21 long distance hiking trails that at least partially run through Osttirol, and the Isel Trail might just be the best one, as it offers you a glimpse of everything the region has to offer. Following the Isel River, you get to see everything from Lienz to the Umbalkees glacier in Hohe Tauern National Park. With a length of 57,26 km, it is the largest still free-flowing glacial river of the Alps and is fed by 48 inflows before it disembogues into the Drau.
There are 5 stages of the Isel Trail, and thanks to a series of bus stops, you can easily only hike along one or several sections of the trail.
I ended up walking along the Ainet Schlaiten to Oberlienz Glanz section of stage 1 of the Iseltrail and enjoyed it. There is a bus station at the starting and end point so it is very convenient even if you do not have a car, and if you go rafting in the morning, you just have to walk across the bridge at the Adventure Park to get to the trail.
This section is relatively flat, but you have to climb over cattle gates and a staircase. The trail sometimes has you walk right at the river and other times a short distance away through floodplain forests. Eventually, you will walk along meadows full of flowers.
Be sure to keep your eyes on the river while you walk to spot some of the birds that nest, hunt, or rest near the Isel. And of course, you will also spot kayakers and people rafting to Lienz.
The Stages of the Isel Trail
In total, the Isel Trail has a length of 73,7 km and a total elevation gain of around 2100 meters. The 5 individual stages are as follows:
Stage 1: Lienz to St. Johann im Walde — 16,1 km — 4:30 h — 80 m elevation gain — 12 m downhill
Stage 2: St. Johann im Walde to Matrei in Osttirol — 14,5 km — 4 h — 227 m elevation gain — 45 m downhill
Stage 3: Matrei to Prägraten am Großvenediger — 16,1 km — 5 h — 556 m elevation gain — 199 m downhill
Stage 4: Prägraten to Clara Hut — 11,3 km — 4:30 h — 765 m elevation gain — 12 m downhill
Stage 5: Clara Hut to Glacier Tongue “Pyramid” to Ströden parking lot — 16,1 km — 5:30 h — 475 m elevation gain — 1240 m downhill — catch bus 951 from the parking lot
Alternatively, you can also bike along the 30 km-long Isel Bike Trail which follows the river between Matrei and Lienz.
Schnapps Distillery Tour
After exploring the wild water, the late afternoon is the perfect time to dive into the liquid side of the local culture. And given Osttirol’s long-standing fruit distillation history, the best way to do so is to visit a local schnapps distillery. After all, there are more than 60 distilling licenses in the nearby village of Dölsach with 2300 inhabitants.
I visited the Schnapps Distillery Kuenz in Dölsach, the largest distillery in the area. Looking back at a farming history of nearly 400 years, the distillery is now run by the 12th generation.
While the fruits were once solely distilled so they would not go bad, the family business now turns them into delicious schnapps and also distills award-winning whisky in the winter months.
During the tour, you will learn a lot about the process of making schnapps from the grafting of the trees to the distillation, and it is very interesting even if you do not drink. If you do like to indulge, you will love the tasting that follows the tour.
Based on the taste tasting, I highly recommend the Osttiroler Pregler, the Unholde Schnaps, and the Rauchkofel Whisky Creme. It goes without saying that I bought a few bottles to bring home for family and friends.
If you want to tour the distillery and do a taste-testing, you can either book a private tour for groups of at least 10 people or attend the open tour which takes place on Thursdays at 4 PM (May – October). Additionally, the distillery also organizes a bad weather program for hotels. You might want to take a taxi there as you will be doing a schnapps and whisky tasting.
Day 3: Adventurous Mountains
Day 3 of this Osttirol-focused Austria itinerary is all about getting your heart pumping through climbing a Via Ferrata and racing down an alpine coaster. It is the perfect day for you if you love a good thrill. However, there are also options for a more relaxed approach.
Galitzenklamm Via Ferrata
There are 25 different Via Ferrata in Osttirol and 5 of them are in Galitzenklamm (Galitzen Canyon). In addition to a short practice course (grade C), you can choose between the following Via Ferrata: ‘Family’ (C), ‘Endorphin’ (C), ‘Adrenalin’ (D; E variety), ‘Dopamin’ (E), and ‘Der 24er Hochgebirgsjäger’ (D/E; E/F alternative).
I first did the training Via Ferrata and then tackled the ‘Family Via Ferrata’ (Familienklettersteig Galitzenklamm). It has grade C sections and you have to make several large steps while standing on ledges of the cliff. As such, it is vital that you do not have a fear of heights.
As you climb up, you get a better view of the nearby mountain peaks and at the highest elevation, you will find a cross and a little statue. It takes around 45 minutes to climb the 200 m cable length with an elevation gain of 70 m. You have to walk 10 minutes to the beginning of the cable and it takes around 20 minutes to climb down.
Given the rain of the previous day, some sections of the wall were still wet, and at one point I slipped and had a brunch with the cliff. I am no stranger to climbing Via Ferrata and usually do not need a guide if I stay in the B/C range, but after falling I was admittedly glad to have a guide. That being said, I would do the Via Ferrata again – just not after a rainy day.
The Galitzenklamm Via Ferratas are open from May to October, and the fee for adults is 10,50€. The entry fee for children that are climbing is 8,50€. If you do not have your own gear, you can rent a full set for 14€. If you do not want to climb, you can just visit the water observation path.
The Jausenstation Galitzenklamm restaurant only a few meters away from the exit of the climbing area is the perfect place to eat lunch. I recommend the Kässpätzle.
Hochstein & Alpine Coaster
After spending the morning climbing, the best way to spend the afternoon is is head up the Hochstein, a mountain right next to Lienz. The first Hochstein cable car will take you to the Moosalm (1006 m) and if you look back as you ascend, you will have a great view of the city.
Once at the Moosalm, you can do a range of activities like visiting a petting zoo, going lama trekking, climbing some more in the tree climbing park or hiking.
There are different routes including a valley view loop, but if you prefer a shorter hike, you can hike to the Taxermoos Reservoir. While small, the tree-framed reservoir is quite scenic, and if you get close to the water, you can observe small fish, tadpoles, and with some luck even fully-grown frogs.
While these activities are a great addition to a thrilling day, it is the ways to get down the mountain that might just get your heart racing again. After all, Hochstein is home to the ‘Osttirodler’ alpine coaster. Sitting in a sled, you can race down the 2.7 km long track into the valley.
I know I went faster at one point, but when the speed was measured, I was racing down the mountain at 31.74 km/h. And while it might not sound fast, it certainly feels significantly faster when the wind hits your face – especially when you are speeding into a curve. It was a lot of fun, and I honestly would have loved to do it.
Along the way, you are initially surrounded by trees, but eventually, the view opens up and you can once again see Lienz. There is a photo point near the end of the alpine coaster. An Osttirodler combi ticket costs 21€ for adults, 16€ for youths (6-18), and 6€ for children (3-6).
There is also a bike park with a variety of mountain bike trails on Hochstein mountain. A 4-hour lift pass with bike transfer costs 34€, while a full-day ticket costs 42€.
Day 4: Hohe Tauern National Park
Day 4 of this Osttirol itinerary is all about visiting Hohe Tauern National Park, the largest national park in the Eastern Alps (1.856 km²). It is home to 341 glaciers, including the Umbalkees Glacier, the source of the Isel. As such, the last two stages of the Isel Trail are (partially) located inside the national park.
If you do not want to hike alone, you can ‘rent a ranger’ for 270€ per day, or join one of the scheduled guided tours for 22€ adults and 15€ for children (under 14).
If you want to learn more about the national park, you can do so at the ‘Nationalpark Haus Matrei’. There is no entry fee and the 4€ audio guide fee is waived if you have the Osttirol Card.
Umbal Falls
The first stop of the day takes you back to the Isel, and upon arrival, you will soon realize that the river has an even wilder appearance near its source. Located in the Umbal Valley, the section of the Isel is full of small waterfalls, and the best way to see them is to hike along the ‘Natur Kraft Weg’ (Nature Power Trail).
The water viewing path was the first European aquatic adventure trail and opened in August of 1976. Thanks to its early popularity, the Isel remained untouched and plans for a power plant were scrapped. As such, it is a prime example of tourism done right and highlights how sustainable tourism can help preserve nature.
To get to the beginning of the actual trail, most people hike from the Ströden parking lot to Islitzeralm (1513 m), but you can also get there by horse carriage ride. I tend to be critical of horse carriage rides in cities, but in this specific situation, I could not identify any issues that would make it an unethical choice. As such, it is a good option if not everyone in your group is up for a longer walk that day.
Starting at the parking lot, it is a 5.8 km long loop hike with an elevation gain of 250 m. It should take you around 2:30 h but expect to spend more time here if you want to enjoy looking at the waterfalls along the way. Large sections of the trail consist of steps and there are several viewing platforms. One of them is a massive rock in the middle of the river, which can be accessed via a wooden bridge.
When using Google Maps, it can be hard to spot where the trail begins to loop back, so I recommend using MapsMe as a navigation tool. Otherwise, you can use the ‘Formende Kraft des Wassers’ information board as a navigational marker that indicates you are about to loop back to the beginning of the trail.
If you are up for a longer hike, you can also turn it into a day hike by hiking all the way up to Clara Hut (Clarahütte) at an altitude of 2038 m. Once there, you can either turn around or spend the night there and hike to the Umbalkees glacier tongue the following morning. A return hike from Umbal Valley to Clara Hut takes around 6 hours. If you want to spend the night, you have to book your stay at Clara Hut in advance.
Glocknerwinkel, Ködnitz Valley
It takes a while to get to Ködnitz Valley from the Umbal Falls, but if you want to see the Großglockner, Austria’s highest mountain, the journey is well worth it. After all, the Großglockner viewpoint near Lucknerhaus (1900 m) is the best place in Osttirol to see the Großglockner.
To get there, you have to drive along the Kalser Glocknerstraße so you have to pay a toll fee that varies depending on how much time you spend in the area. You can find the current costs here. In summer, you can also take the National Park Hiking Bus there.
The summit of the mountain is often at least partially covered by clouds, but if you do not mind waiting, there is a relatively good chance you will see most of it.
I did not see the summit despite spending nearly an hour in the area, but I did not mind it too much, as I used the time to observe nearby Alpine marmots and a chamois with binoculars.
You can rent binoculars at the ‘Glocknerwinkel Visitor Center’ which is right at the parking lot.
It is usually open from 9 AM to 4 PM (between May and October). There is also an exhibition about the Big 5 of Hohe Tauern National Park: ibex, chamois, Alpine marmots, bearded vultures, and golden eagles.
If you end up visiting Ködnitz Valley on day 5 and want to do another hike, you can hike to the Luckner Hut (Luckner Hütte). It is a 5.2 km long return hike with an elevation gain of 320 meters and takes around 2:20 h.
I only did a very short section of this hike while trying to take photos of Alpine marmots, but given the chance to return there on a sunny day, I would love to do the hike with my camera and a telelens. I have been told one can often see ibex in the summer months, so it is bound to be an amazing hike.
Day 5: Farewell to Osttirol
Your fifth day in Osttirol serves as a buffer in case the weather is not ideal, or if you decide to extend your hike on day 4 to hike to Clara Hut or even to the glacier tongue after an overnight stay at the hut. It is what I plan to do when I next visit the region.
If you decide to extend the hike, I recommend visiting the Ködnitz Valley on day 5 before leaving Osttirol to head home or to your next destination.
Where to next?
After exploring Osttirol I headed to Kitzbühel, and based on my own experience, I am convinced that spending a few days in Kitzbühel is the ideal extension of your vacation.
While it is also located in the state of Tyrol, Kitzbühel is on the other side of the Kitzbühel Alps and Hohe Tauern mountain ranges, and as such, it does not have Lienz’s Mediterranean flair. Instead, the city enchants visitors with its colorful medieval city center and history. Therefore, combining the two destinations allows you to see two different sides of Tyrol.
Itinerary Map
If you plan a trip to Osttirol based on this Austria itinerary, this map will give you a better understanding of where everything is located and which bus stops are nearby.
All mentioned significant locations in Osttirol are marked on the map and sorted by date. I recommend creating a copy of the map so you can make adjustments while planning your own Osttirol trip.
Where to stay: Hotel Moarhof
Given its central location within Osttirol and the proximity to many locations included in this Austria itinerary, the city of Lienz is the ideal place to stay while exploring the region.
I particularly recommend staying at Hotel Moarhof. It is where I stayed and I more than enjoyed my stay. Located only a short walk away from the city center. You can choose between spacious single rooms, double rooms, family rooms, and apartments.
Hotel Moarhof is a 4-star hotel and is the perfect place to relax and enjoy a delicious meal after a day full of adventures in Osttirol.
After all, staying at the hotel allows you to relax in the “Alpinarium” sauna area where you will find a Finnish sauna, an organic herbal sauna, a Swiss stone pine solarium, a steam bath, and more amenities.
There is also a heated, covered pool that is open from mid-May to the end of September.
In addition to this wellness area, a stay at Hotel Moarhof also treats you with fantastic food as part of the half-board package. The restaurant of Hotel Moarhof allows you to “experience Osttirol with all your senses” and every day your dinner will consist of four courses prepared with local and seasonal ingredients.
It is a gourmet experience with a menu that changes daily. You can choose between three main dishes and desserts, and there is also an accompanying wine selection. I loved the food and combined with the friendly staff serving it, it was an all-around delightful culinary experience. Once made aware, they were excellent at catering to dietary restrictions.
You will also love the large breakfast buffet that includes many different types of bread, muesli, and more.
There is also an à la carte restaurant known as “Moarhof Stüberl” and if Mojitos are your go-to drink, you should head to the hotel bar ‘Pepo’s Bar’. You can also rent e-bikes and bicycles at the reception.
Osttirol Travel Tips
Try the local cuisine — Hereby, I particularly recommend Schlipfkrapfen and Kässpätzle (the Mac’n’Cheese of the Alps).
What to bring — If you follow this itinerary, you will need hiking boots, shoes that are suitable for climbing a Via Ferrata, a waterproof jacket, a water bottle, swimwear, and a microfiber towel.
The Hohe Tauern National Park rules are as follows, but they are a good set of rules to follow anywhere in Osttirol: keep your distance from animals, stay on the trail, take your trash with you, do not take flora or fauna, keep your dog on a leash, do not camp in the national park, avoid loud noise, be mindful of the weather, and wear appropriate gear.
FAQ
What is the best time to visit Osttirol?
If you want to experience what Osttirol has to offer in summer, you have to plan your trip between mid-May and the end of September. In October you can also do some of the summer activities in the area.
Within this time frame, mid-July to mid-September is the busiest season, with August in particular being popular among cyclists.
I was there in mid-May and loved it. If the weather had been typical for May, it would been perfect.
How to get around?
While it can be convenient to have a rental car in Osttirol, you do not need one to explore the area. After all, you can free rides on most regional buses with the Osttirol guest card which you receive when you check in at your hotel. If you need the bus to get to your hotel, you can also order the card in advance. You can find more information here.
In addition to that, you can also organize an Alpenland Shuttle to get around or take the hiking buses in the summer months.
Is Osttirol worth visiting?
While planning my next trip to Austria, Osttirol was never really on my radar as I did not know much about the region. But now that I experienced what it is like to visit the area, I can only say that it should have been.
Osttirol offers a wealth of adventures and combined with its comparatively unknown status as a summer destination, it is the perfect place in Austria if you want to venture off the beaten path and satisfy your thirst for adventure.
It is an ideal summer destination for nature lovers and thrill-seekers who want to explore Austria beyond the usual destinations. If you follow this itinerary for your first trip to Osttirol, you certainly will not regret it.
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Is there anything else you want to know about Osttirol?
Let me know in the comments!
Beautiful pictures and great itinerary! Thank you for sharing!
A 12th generation distillery!? That’s incredible, we don’t have things like that in the US (maybe in a couple hundred years!). I absolutely need to try some Kässpätzle 🧀