Calakmul is one of the most captivating archeological sites in Mexico, but given the remote location of the ruins, getting there is not straightforward and requires some planning. But while it certainly is not the easiest Mayan ruins to visit, you can choose between several options of getting there even if you do not want to drive there on your own.
Given that the nearest town is 2 hours away from the ruins, most travelers spent a night in Xpujil prior to visiting the site, and doing so certainly is the most comfortable option. When I visited Calakmul during my first trip to Mexico, I spend two nights in Xpujil and drove the archeological site in a rental car, but it is also possible to arrange a transfer there as part of a guided visit.
This article will tell you all you need to know about how to get to Calakmul.
Even when I visited the site, a lot of information about getting to Calakmul was outdated, and the situation still has certainly not improved. Some things like a shuttle bus from Xpujil to Calakmul are have not been in operation for years, and based on what the local tourism office said, there are currently no plans to reintroduce said shuttle service.
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1. Calakmul Day Trip from Bacalar
If you are short on time, but do not want to skip Calakmul, you can do a day tour from Bacalar. Given the long distance between the two destinations, you will be spending a long time in a bus, but if you have no other option, it is a good option.
Book a Day Trip from Bacalar to Calakmul
Should you have more time however, I highly recommend spending more time in the Calakmul and Xpujil area, as there are several other interesting archeological site in the area that are well worth a visit.
Given the distance, it is not possible to visit Calakmul as a day trip from Tulum or even Cancun.
2. How to Get to Calakmul without a Rental Car
Getting to Xpujil
If you want to visit Calakmul without having to rent a car, you best option is to travel to Xpujil first. Hereby, you can choose between taking the bus or taking the Tren Maya.
While there is a direct bus from Tulum to Xpujil, it only departs once a week, so it is not ideal. It is operated by Autobuses Unidos and has a travel time of 5:45 hours.
Given the limited departures, your best bet is to travel to Chetumal in the south of Quintana Roo first. There are frequent connections from Cancun, Tulum, Playa del Carmen, and Bacalar to Chetumal. Once there, you then have to catch the bus from Chetumal to Xpujil. This route between Chetumal and Xpujil is served by both ADO and AU buses and takes around 1:45 h. I recommend booking a ticket in advance.
Alternatively, you can also take the Tren Maya to Xpujil. It is no secret that I am not the biggest fan of said train due to the devastating ecological impact, but it’s construction has added another way of getting to Xpujil. There is also a Calakmul stop, but unless you have arranged a pickup from said station, you should not get off the train here. There are no services offered at the station, and usually there are no taxi waiting for travelers. Do yourself a favor and get off the train in Xpujil.
Where to Stay in Xpujil
To make the most of your time in Calakmul, you should head there in the early morning, so it is best to spend the night in Xpujil. In fact, I recommend booking two nights in town, so you can return there after visiting the ruins and do not have to worry about getting to your next location after a long day of exploring Calakmul.
During my own visit, I stayed at two different hotel and both were great options. Hotel Casa Marán is located on the main street and feels more modern, while Hotel Xpujil is on a quieter side street, but is more rustic. The hotel also has a small pool.
If you are looking for a more luxurious accommodation, the charming of Casa Kaan are ideal for you.
Getting to Calakmul from Xpujil
If you are traveling by public transport, your best option is to join a guided tour from Xpujil to Calakmul. These tours usually cost between 1.600 and 1.700 pesos per person, which a minimum of two participants.
Joining a tour will allow you to explore the Calakmul ruins with a naturalist or archeological guide. It is best to do so in advance if you do not speak Spanish. Reach out to the visitor center via email at visitcalakmul@gmail.com.
Alternatively, you could also take a taxi, but given that the driver would have to wait hours while you explore the ruins, this option is expensive. There is no fixed price, so you have to negotiate and hope to get a good price.
3. Driving to Calakmul in a Rental Car
If you have a driver’s license and do not mind driving in Mexico, it is best to rent a car in Cancun, Tulum, or Playa del Carmen, and drive to Xpujil and the ruins of Calakmul. Hereby, you will find the best rental car prices in Playa del Carmen. Due to the road conditions on route to Calakmul, it is best not to get a small car with a low clearance.
While you could technically also rent a car in Xpujil, doing so is not advised unless you rent the car ahead of time. There are few rental cars are available, and quite often none of them are available for spontaneous day rentals, so you have to reserve a car in advance. The price for a one-day rental in Xpujil is around 1500 pesos (approx. 73 USD).
The driving time from Playa del Carmen to Xpujil is around 4:30 hours (398 km), and the driving time from Campeche City is 3:45 hours (299 km). If you arrive early enough, you can use the remainder of the day to explore one of the other archeological sites in the area. I personally recommend visiting Becan, which is located 8 km outside of the town.
If you are driving to Calakmul from the east, it is best to stop in Xpujil, which is 116 km (72 miles) and 2 hours away from the ruins. The driving time to Xpujil is as follows:
– Cancun: 464 km (288 miles); 5:45 h [total: 580 km (360 miles); 7:45 h]
– Tulum: 334 km (208 miles); 4:15 h [total: 450 km (280 miles); 6:15 h]
– Bacalar: 120 km (75 miles); 1:35 h [total: 236 km (147 miles); 3:35 h]
If you are planning to drive to the Calakmul ruins from Campeche City, the best place to stop is Escárcega. The total distance to the archeological site is:
– Campeche City: 303 km (188 miles); 5 h
– Escárcega: 156 km (97 miles); 3 h
Driving from Xpujil to Calakmul
Spend the night in Xpujil and make your way towards the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve in the early morning. Ideally, you will want to arrive just as it opens to maximize the time you have to explore the area and the archeological site.
If you use Google Maps as a navigation tool, you should ensure that you do not select the Calakmul tag west of El Refugio. The ruins are south of La Selva and this is the correct location.
Do not forget to fill up your rental car’s tank before you drive to Calakmul!
The distance is 56 km (34.8 miles) and it takes 37 minutes to drive from Xpujil to Entronque de Calakmul. To get to the entry of the biosphere reserve in which the ruins are located, you have to follow road 186, which connects Chetumal and Villahermosa.
I have taken to calling this road the “butterfly tunnel of death” as we hit 21 butterflies on way there. Blue birds kept sweeping down to pick up the dead butterflies on the street which certainly added an unexpected ‘circle of life’ to the drive.
The road between the entrance gate and the museum is 20 km long and has a speed limit of 60 km/h. They will check your bracelets at a checkpoint at the museum and take note of your license plate.
The last 40 km after the museum have a speed limit of 30 km/h and it is essential to abide by it, as there is a lot of wildlife. While driving slowly, you can spot animals including ocellated turkeys, and if you are really lucky maybe even a jaguar. We saw seven ocellated turkeys on way there and just under twenty on the way back.
Oftentimes, there are branches on the road, and there are pot holes aplenty. The last 8 km of road to Calakmul are the worst and the reason why you want a car with a higher clearance.
Free parking is available on site. There are plenty of trees around the parking area, so you do not have to worry about your car heating up while you explore the archeological site.
What is the best way to get to Calakmul?
Ultimately, there is no best way of traveling to the ruins, as the best way to get to Calakmul depends on your own travel plans and preferences. If you want the utmost independence and do not mine driving in Mexico, then driving there yourself is the ideal choice for you. Meanwhile, taking the Tren Maya and then doing a guided tour with a transfer to the archeological site is the best option, for travelers who prefer the convenience of guided tours.
For obvious reasons, doing a day tour from Bacalar is the most exhausting option, but if that is the only alternative that works with your travel plans, then you should go for it. Getting to explore the many incredible structures and stelae of Calakmul is well worth braving two rather long transfers.
More about Calakmul and Xpujil
If you are planning to visit the archeological site, you might also be interested in these guides:
Calakmul Ruins – All You Need to Know
Becan Ruins near Xpujil
Is there anything else you want to know about visiting Calakmul?
Let me know in the comments!
