While I love exploring cities, it never takes long before I feel the need to be surrounded by nature. As such, it was only a matter of days before I needed a short break from Panama City. And what better place for a few hours in nature is there, than a tropical rainforest-covered hill right in the heart of the city? Known for its wildlife and scenic views of the city, Ancon Hill was exactly what I was looking for.
Locally known as ‘Cerro Ancon’, the 200 m (~645 ft.) high hill is a reserve that is home to 68 animal species and more than 210 plant species. Despite being surrounded by the city, it is a fantastic spot for bird and wildlife watching, while also offering great views of Panama City and the Panama Canal.
It is the place to see wildlife if you are only in Panama City for a layover and do not have the time for long excursions.
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At a Glance: Ancon Hill Hike
Trail Length: 1.5 km (0,932 miles) oneway; 3 km return
Elevation gain: ~130 meters (~ 427 feet)
Open: 8:00 AM – 4:00 PM – Do not start hikes earlier or later.
Amenities: There is a portable toilet at the top of the hill.
Cost: free
History of Ancon
Going all the way back to 1671 when scouts of pirate Henry Morgan used the elevation as a vantage point before he attacked ‘Panama Viejo’, Ancon Hill has served as an observation point that is closely connected to Panama’s history. After the attack, it was the Spaniards who used the hill for surveillance.
In 1904, the US took control of the Panama Canal Zone which included Ancon Hill. Due to its location, the hill offered a strategically important view of the entrance of the canal on the Pacific side, and public access was restricted.
This prompted the local poet Amelia Denis de Ioaza to write her 1906 poem about Ancon: “I no longer keep the traces of my steps / You are no longer mine, idolized Ancon”. A statue of her can now be found near the summit.
On September 7, 1977, control over Ancon Hill was given back to Panama, and a large Panama flag has been flying on it ever since. It can be seen from many places in the city and is a celebration of the country’s independence. The US gave Panama sole control over the Panama Canal Zone on December 31, 1999.
The Ancon Hill Hike
With a length of 1.5 km (0,932 miles) oneway and an elevation gain of around ~130 meters (~ 427 feet), the Ancon Hill hike can be described as a rather easy and short hike. For most of the hike, you follow a paved uphill street that spirals up the hill.
It is only at the beginning and near the end of the hike that you have to walk up steep stairs. It is the final longer stairs that lead you to two large antennae and the three viewpoints.
If you do the hike with your family and need to push a stroller or wheelchair, you can also skip both stairs by starting the hike at ‘Avenida Gorgas’ and simply following the street near the top instead of walking up the stairs.
Please note, that hikers are usually asked to use the stairs, so only stick to the road if taking the stairs is not an option.
When I did the hike, it was very humid and warm, so it felt nice when it started to rain. As the rain soaked into the ground, a wooden scent filled the air, and if I ignored the background noise of honking cars, it felt like I was far away from the city.
As you near the summit of the “Cerro Ancon Reserve”, you will only hear the sound of the massive Panamanian flag snapping in the wind and bird calls. I am quite sure I heard a toucan, but sadly I did not see it.
Cerro Ancon Viewpoints
1. Casco Antiguo
The first viewpoint is located close to the top of the stairs and offers a great view of Casco Antiguo and the Cinta Costera. While you can catch glimpses of Panama City’s historic quarter as you walk uphill, the covered viewpoint provides the least restricted view of the area.
2. Cityscape of Panama City
To reach the second viewpoint, you have to walk up an incline toward the flag and the statue of the Panamanian poet Amelia Denis de Ioaza. From this viewpoint, you can have a great view of the skyline of Panama City framed by trees. There are several benches at this viewpoint, so you can sit down and enjoy the view.
3. Panama Canal
The third viewpoint of Ancon Hill offers you a view of the Panama Canal. It is located on the other side of the antennae, so you have to walk down the incline and the head left of the antennae.
You have an unrestricted view of the port of Balboa and can see harbor cranes, and unloaded containers as well as ships heading to or coming from the older Miraflores Locks and the larger Cocoli Locks.
It makes Ancon Hill the place to go if you want to see the canal but do not want to visit any of the Locks.
How long does it take to hike Ancon Hill?
If your sole goal is to get to the viewpoints at the top of Ancon Hill, the hike can be done in 30 minutes or less.
However, I highly recommend taking your time so you can look around and try to spot birds & other wildlife. There are also several places along the route that offer a nice view and warrant stopping to take a photo.
I stopped quite often to take photos and to look for wildlife, and it took me 46 minutes. If I had not started the hike at 3:11 PM, it likely would have taken me longer, but given the time, the animals were less active and I had fewer opportunities to observe them.
Take your time at the top to enjoy the view and then do not rush on the way down as it is another opportunity to spot wildlife. If you happen to see a sleeping sloth on the way up, I recommend remembering where it was. The sloth I spotted happened to wake up and lift its head just as I walked past it again on the way down.
Is it safe to do the Ancon Hill hike alone?
If you hike during the day, it is safe to do the hike on your own. The ‘trail’ is a wide paved road so the chances of seriously injuring yourself because of a fall are marginal.
When I did the hike alone, I encountered plenty of families along the way. As such, help would never be too far away.
Cerro Ancon Wildlife
Ancon Hill is home to 68 species of mammals, birds, and insects. These include sloths, coati, Geoffrey’s tamarins, deer, and agouti (ñeque). Keep looking up as you walk and stop every now and then to listen to the sounds around you. You will be able to hear birds around you as well as the cracking of wood when mammals and reptiles move around.
While hiking up Cerro Ancon, I spotted a sloth and iguana up in the trees. There were also several vultures within the trees, but most raptors were swirling around above Ancon Hill. I was in Panama City during the raptor migration, so the sheer number of raptors swirling around was astonishing. If you want a better look at them, you should bring binoculars.
How to get to Ancon Hill
The easiest way to get to Ancon Hill is to take a UBER to “Ancon Walk” near “Mi Pueblito”. If you order your UBER to this location, you will be dropped off right at a set of stairs from where you can start your hike. These stairs end right behind the gate which is sometimes closed even when the road up Ancon Hill is open, which makes it the more convenient starting point.
When leaving Ancon Hill, you will have to walk to “Mi Pueblito” to catch a UBER.
How much does it cost to go to Ancon Hill?
Transportation costs vary throughout the day, but if you do not catch a ride during a peak in demand, your UBER ride should cost between 3.25 USD and 4.60 USD if you are heading to Ancon Hill from Casco Antiguo (Casco Viejo).
The Best Time to Hike Ancon Hill
If your main goal while hiking Ancon Hill is to see birds, it is best to head there in the early morning between 8 AM and 9 AM. Hiking at this time is also the ideal way to avoid the mid-day heat.
Please note that while the best time for birding in Panama is at dawn, it is not an option on Ancon Hill. According to the current signs, you are not supposed to be on Ancon Hill earlier than 8 AM.
If you want to see birds of prey swirling in raptor kettles over Ancon Hill, the best time is from October 1 to November 18. During this time, 2 to 3 million birds of prey migrate through the country, making it the third-largest raptor migration in the world.
When it comes to the ideal weather for hiking, Ancon Hill differs from other hikes in Panama. As you follow a paved road, you do not have to worry about muddy trails, and as such, you can hike up the hill even after a massive downpour. In fact, you can even hike Ancon Hill when it is raining.
I was in Panama during the height of the rainy season, so of course it started raining as I was hiking. Thankfully, the rainforest provided great shelter, and parts of the road stayed dry, so I could keep hiking without getting drenched.
Hiking Essentials
- If you want to hike Ancon Hill, it is vital to bring a bottle of water. After all, it tends to be very hot and humid.
- Given that you are walking on a paved uphill road, you can do the hike in sneakers.
- Aside from a great view of the city, you will see plenty of wildlife along the way, so I recommend bringing a camera. I was glad to have a 16 – 50 mm and a 50 – 250 mm lens in my backpack.
Rules
While hiking Cerro Ancon in Panama City, you have to abide by the following rules: No alcohol, littering, dogs without leashes, fires, smoking, or ‘bedroom activities’.
While there is no rule against loud noise, you should certainly avoid it so you can see the wildlife of Ancon Hill. Please do not shout at animals if they do not look your way or are sleeping.
Unfortunately, I witnessed a family scream at a poor sleeping sloth. Do not be like the family and simply enjoy seeing wild animals. They are not there to perform for anyone.
Is the Ancon Hill hike worth it?
Ancon Hill offers a nice and relatively easy hike that makes for a great ‘getaway into nature’ without actually having to leave Panama City. As such, it is definitely worth it to add this hike to your Panama City itinerary. Especially, if you want to experience the green side of the busy city.
As you ascend the hill, you get a first impression of Panama’s biodiversity, and combined with the great views of the cityscape and Panama Canal, it is one of the best things to do in Panama City. While the viewpoints in Metropolitan Natural Park also offer great city vistas, I favored the view from Ancon Hill. Therefore, I recommend hiking Ancon if you only have the time for one hike.
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More about Panama
If you are planning to hike Ancon Hill you might also be interested in these Panama travel guides:
3 Days in Panama City (soon)
Panama Travel Tips (soon)
Which animal do you hope to see when hiking Ancon Hill?
Let me know in the comments!
