A gloomy day with a grey sky and pouring rain is not ideal when you plan to hike along a historic road with cobblestone sections. And yet, that is what I woke up to the morning I set out to hike along the Hakone Hachiri section of the Old Tokaido Highway that connected Tokyo and Kyoto during the Edo Period.
Already feeling chilly after merely looking out the window, I wanted to do nothing but go back to sleep. But doing so was not a viable option. After all, I had arranged a guided hike along the historic highway with Tony of Hike Hakone Hachiri. So with my grandpa’s attitude of “you’re not made of sugar” (and therefore will not dissolve in the rain) in mind, I put on my rain jacket and the rain cover of my hiking backpack.
Dragging the rest of my luggage along, I headed to Tokyo station before 7 AM. Once there, I boarded the Shinkansen for the first time to head to Odawara, where I would meet up with Tony.
After a short gleeful moment due to finally riding the Shinkansen, I found myself staring at the passing scenery as the raindrops raced along the window. For a moment I wondered if it would be better to dissolve like sugar rather than to hike around 12 km in the rain on what was bound to be a slippery trail. But then the train arrived in Odawara and it was time to lace up my hiking boots after dropping off my suitcase at the hotel.
Another short train ride and a taxi ride later, Tony and I arrived at the starting point of our hike. But before setting foot on the actual trail, we stepped into the 400-year-old Amazake Chaya tea house, where the owner Mr. Yamamoto shared stories about his family business and its historic role in connection with the Old Tokaido Highway.
And while I sat there, listening to him sing the song that the porters once sang while carrying people along the trail, the sound of rain stopped. All that remained was the sound of the bamboo cups Mr. Yamamoto tapped against the table to mimic the synchronized steps of the porters and horse hooves.
Having finished my cup of sweet amazake that raised my spirits, we soon thanked him for his time and finally set foot on the Hakone Hachiri, with the rain being nothing but a memory that reflected the surrounding trees in puddles. It was time to walk in the proverbial footsteps of countless diplomats, samurai, and artists.
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At a Glance: Old Tokaido Highway
Book a Guided Hike: Hike Hakone Hachiri
Best Place to Stay: Tenseien Odawara Station Annex, Odawara or Hotel Gee Haive, Mishima
Getting there: Shinkansen to Odawara where you will meet your hiking guide
About the Old Tokaido Highway
The Old Tokaido Highway is a testament to Japan’s rich history, particularly during the Edo period (1603-1868). Among the five main roads of that era, the Tokaido was the most significant, serving as the vital link between the shogun capital Edo (modern-day Tokyo) and the imperial capital Kyoto.
The route of the 514 km long road is determined by geography and winds its way along the sea, the reason for its name Tokaido which means ‘Eastern Sea Route’. It starts at Nihonbashi in Tokyo and ends at Sanjo Ohashi in Kyoto.
While the road existed in some form prior to the construction of the Tokaido, it was sectionalized prior to the Edo Period.
After rising to power Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Tokugawa shogun, ordered the reconstruction of the road segments to turn it into a national highway that facilitated transport throughout Japan as a united nation.
Checkpoints and 53 government-sanctioned post stations, also known as ‘juku’, were constructed along the road. At these post stations, travelers could rest, hire porters, or change horses. While it was intended to build one ‘juku’ every 4 ri, geographical features such as mountains and rivers lead to a higher number.
Most people traversing the Old Tokaido Highway traveled on foot. However, higher-class people were usually carried in a palanquin, and some samurai traveled on horseback. Carts were not used, as heavy goods were usually transported by ship.
On average, a trip from Edo to Kyoto on Tokaido took 12 days. However, this travel time could increase if the rivers were in flood, as there were few bridges for safety reasons. Therefore, travelers had to rely on ferry boats or walk through smaller rivers.
It was not until the journey could be completed by train after the completion of the Tokaido railroad line between Tokyo and Kyoto in 1889, that the travel time between the two cities was dramatically reduced to 7 hours.
To this day, it is the most important route in Japan, but its history is often unknown to travelers making their way from Tokyo to Kyoto (or Osaka).
In fact, many people that visit Japan hike along the old Nakasendo Route instead without knowing, that it was not the main highway. Partially, because the mountainous road was made popular by many tour operators that offer multi-day hikes.
Therefore, the once heavily frequented Old Tokaido Highway is now one of Japan’s hidden gems that is comparatively rarely traversed by international visitors.
FAQ
Does the Tokaido Road still exist?
Most parts of the Old Tokaido Highway no longer exist in its historic form, as train tracks and National Highway 1 were built on large sections of the old walking road.
However, some sections were unintentionally preserved as the terrain in some areas was too mountainous and steep. Roads and train tracks were planned in easier-to-traverse sections. The Hakone Hachiri section is one of the rare original sections.
Why did large sections of the Hakone Hachiri survive: Instead of having the railroad follow the old road, it was decided to build the tracks near Ashigara rather than traversing the area via the Hakone Pass and the steep slopes.
Eventually, the Tanna Tunnel, which was completed in 1935, was built to create a more direct path through the Izu Peninsula bottleneck. And in 1964, the diverted course was reinforced when the Shin-Tanna Tunnel was completed.
Can you walk the Tokaido?
Nowadays, you can still walk on the original route, where the modern road and train tracks divert to follow a less inclined route or to take a more direct path. The Hakone Hachiri section is one of the few remaining original sections.
What is the difference between Nakasendo and Tokaido?
The Tokaido and the Nakasendo were crucial roads of the Edo Period, that connected Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto. With a length of 534 km, the Nakasendo was longer than the 514 km long Tokaido. It traveled inland in the mountainous area and crossed no rivers. Therefore, it was the road of choice when the Tokaido rivers were in flood. There were 69 stations.
During the Edo period, it was often considered more of a leisure route compared to the Tokaido. While walking along this road people took the time to visit temples and shrines, and to take in the mountain vistas.
Old Tokaido Highway Hike: Hakone Hachiri
Given that few sections of the Old Tokaido Highway remain, getting to hike on the Hakone Hachiri section between Odawara and Mishima is a unique way to explore Japanese history. Especially, as it is the only place in Japan that still has all the features of an Edo period journey: a stone path, a castle town, post towns, roadside trees, a tea house, and an official checkpoint.
The Hakone Hachiri was declared a Japan Heritage Area in May 2018 and is named after the 32 km trail length between Odawara-juku (9th station) and Mishima-juku (11th station). ‘Hachi’ means ‘eight’, while ‘ri’ is an old Japanese measurement unit according to which markers were placed along the Tokaido. One ‘ri’ is around 4 km (3.93 km).
If you want to enjoy the hike and take in everything around you while learning more about the history, it is not possible to walk the entire length of the section in one day. Therefore, the hike I did only had a total length of around 12 km. It is the length that hiking guides like Tony recommend, and I encourage you to follow this advice. As you will see, this hike has a lot to offer and is home to all the highlights of the Hakone Hachiri.
Amazake Chaya Tea House
If you want your hike to be an immersive experience, starting it with a stop at Amazake Chaya Tea House is essential. As you stop through the wide door area, it instantly feels like you have traveled back in time. The interior, adorned with dark wood, has a comfortable atmosphere.
While it is not the original building, this tea house dates back more than 400 years and is run by the 13th generation. The building has been rebuilt many times and the current version was refurbished in a traditional style in 2009. There is a small museum with Edo-era artifacts next door.
The menu of this tea house has not changed since its foundation. And let me tell you that the amazake and mochi are the perfect breakfast for a hiking day. Amazake is a non-alcoholic sweet rice wine, and back in the day, travelers drank it to regain strength before or after tackling the mountainous section of the Hakone Hachiri. So be sure to do the same to get the full experience.
Tony speaks Japanese and thanks to him, I was able to converse with the current owner Mr. Yamamoto. During the course of our conversation, I learned a lot about the tea house, but also about what it was like to travel along the Old Tokaido Highway during the Edo Period.
There used to be 9 tea houses along the Hakone Hachiri section during feudal times, but the Amazake Chaya tea House is the only remaining one, which makes the visit so much more poignant. Especially knowing that the tea house barely survived the period after World War II, when it saw less than one visitor per week.
Mr. Yamamoto does not know for sure how his grandfather managed to keep the family business in operation during those hard times. However, he believes that the family likely found strength in the thankfulness of the customers who did stop there for a revitalizing drink and meal. It is one of the things he plans to ask his grandfather when he has left this world.
Cobblestone Path to Hakone
The first few meters of the trail right behind the tea house might be relatively flat, but after a short while, the terrain gets steeper and is paved with cobblestones. In the early days, the ground was covered with bamboo, but when the upkeep and repair works turned out to be costly, it was turned into a stone-paved path in 1680.
Therefore, this section is a prime example of all steep slopes and areas subject to erosion along the Old Tokaido Highway. Meanwhile, flat sections only consisted of beaten gravel that was covered by sand.
The stones of the road are uneven, and as I walked on them, I could not help but imagine what it must have been like to have to carry someone in a palanquin while doing so. Especially while wearing nothing but the straw sandals that were typical for the time.
It becomes obvious why the carriers had to be strong and good at tying up the luggage that was placed on top of the palanquin as well as being good singers. After all, musical prowess for rhythmic coordination was integral to the arduous task of navigating the steep mountain terrain.
Nowadays, trees line the entire length of the Tokaido cobblestone path to Hakone, but prior to the Second World War, the entire area was deforested. It is only thanks to a large-scale reforestation project involving unemployed soldiers returning home from war, that the once tree-covered area was restored to its former glory.
Upon reaching the top of the slope, you will see a monument on which the lyrics of the song the carriers used to sing are engraved. From this point onwards, the trail gently slopes downwards. At one point, the cobblestone section ends, and you have to follow a gravel path until you reach Hakone.
Hakone & Cedar Avenue
Hakone is the ideal place for an early lunch break – especially as it is the last place with restaurants and small convenience stores until you reach Mishima at the end of the day. So be sure to get anything you need before you resume your hike.
This section of the Old Tokaido Highway follows the shoreline of Lake Ashi. If the sky is clear, you might catch a glimpse of Mt. Fuji in the distance. The first noticeable feature of this section is the 24 ri marker which marks the Tokaido length from Tokyo.
Just after it, the Cedar Avenue begins. This around 1 km long section of the Old Tokaido Highway is not paved but is the section of the Hakone Hachiri that features around 400 Japanese Cedars (cryptomeria) that date back to the 1650s.
Originally, pines were planted, but when they turned out to be unsuitable for the local climate, they were replaced.
Given that the other areas of the Hakone Hachiri were only reforested around 80 years ago, these towering trees with their thick trunks create a completely different scenery compared to what you have seen before. Therefore, walking along this section marks a different chapter in the story of this history highway.
Hakone Checkpoint
Following the main road, you will soon reach Hakone Checkpoint. Originally built in 1619, it was demolished after the Meiji Restoration. But thanks to a reconstruction using old techniques and tools from 2004 to 2007, it is now the only checkpoint of the Edo period that was restored to its original state.
Given Hakone’s former status as the final natural protection of Edo, this status was once amplified through this checkpoint. Given this vital position in the defense of Edo, the control was split between the national government and the local Odawara daimyo.
Beyond that, the Hakone Checkpoint was known to be very strict, and a governmental permit was required to pass it. There were rules and checks in place to prevent women from leaving the Edo-facing area, while weapons were prohibited from being transported towards Edo.
Knowing this Edo period regulation, being able to walk through it myself was a good reminder of how far we have come in terms of gender equality, but simultaneously, it was also sobering, as women died while trying to make it past the checkpoint.
According to the tea house owner Mr. Yamamoto, passing inspection at this checkpoint was also a nerve-wracking experience for men who did not have any weapons on them. As such, whether or not a visitor of the tea house had already made it through the checkpoint, was obvious based on their demeanor. Those who had already made it through the control were usually cheerful, while those who were still facing inspection were quiet and nervous.
Just after the Checkpoint, you will encounter an area that still resembles what Hakone Station used to look like. Hereby, it is interesting to note that there were no porters at Hakone station, while there were 100 horses.
Like each station, Hakone Station had a variety of accommodations for travelers of all social classes. Each station had at least one honjn (fine accommodation for traveling daimyos), several waki honjn (larger hotels), and a higher number of yadoya (inns). On average, there were 50 inns per station. Beyond that, Hakone Station was also famous for woodwork.
West Slope
Just before leaving Hakone behind, it is worth it to make a short stop at Minogasamyo Shrine. It is rarely visited by travelers and features a shrine to the guard dogs that used to protect the people living in the small settlement from wild animals during the Edo period.
After visiting the shrine, the hike along the Old Tokaido Highway continues with a steep uphill section. starting at the Ashikawa Stone Buddhas, this section consists of three slopes: the Akaishi [赤] Slope where red rocks can be found to the left and right of the path, as well as the Kamaiski-zaka Slope, and the Kazakoshi Slope.
The cobblestones of these slopes have rounded corners, and the path is narrower than the one leading to Hakone. Bamboo grows on both sides of the Tokaido. There are also some steep steps that help you gain elevation quickly. Before reaching the top of the west slope, you have to cross a road and resume the hike on the other side.
Hakone Pass & Beyond
Upon reaching the top of the slopes, you will encounter a section of the Old Tokaido Highway that has been turned into a part of National Highway 1. Therefore, your hike continues along the side of the road on a green-colored section.
It is a harsh contrast to the previous kilometers, and upon reaching the highest point of the Hakone Pass at 864 meters, I found it hard to match up what I was seeing with the Hakone ukiyo-e woodcut print of Utagawa Hiroshige from 1832-1833 that depicts that section and Lake Ashi. A fact that felt rather peculiar, as this print was the first thing a friend from Tokyo showed me on her phone when I told her I would be hiking along the Tokaido near Hakone.
After crossing the prefecture board to Shizuoka and walking past a parking lot, the hike takes you back into nature. However, you will still have to cross a road twice in the following kilometers.
Shortly after walking past the 25 ri marker and the former location of a tea house now only marked by a sign, Tony joked that he ‘would give me $100 if we would see a foreigner in the next two hours’. This joke is in fact the perfect way to illustrate how off the beaten track this section of the Old Tokaido Highway is, despite being relatively close to Hakone.
As you once again venture into an area that is surrounded by bamboo, you can spot monuments dedicated to important people who walked along the Tokaido and natural formations including ‘Kabutoishi’ (Helmet Rock).
After crossing a road again for the final time until the end of the hike, the cobblestone path becomes wider and is once again surrounded by trees. The rocks in the area are once again different, and you can enjoy a leisurely end of the hike on a section with very flat rocks that have a different coloration than those just before and after Hakone.
Yamanaka Castle Ruins & Mishima
If you do the hike I did, your hike along the Hakone Hachiri will end at the ruins of Yamanaka Castle. While relatively unknown to many people who visit the area, it played a substantial role in Japanese history. Given that it was destroyed in an attack in 1590, little more than trenches and moats remain, but due to its historical significance, it is still worth a visit.
On a clear day, you might be able to see Mt. Fuji while walking around the castle site. Oftentimes, however, it is hidden by clouds like it was when I visited the site.
After exploring the castle ruins, you can catch bus line N68 to Mishima.
Once there, it is worth it to check out Genbee Bride in the Genbegawa World Heritage water area. The bridge consists of flat stones inside the river, and as walk over it, you can see more water emerging from the lava rocks on both sides of the river bed.
At the end, you will find a water fountain where can fill up your water bottle with melted water from Mt. Fuji.
After that, all that is left to do is to take the train back to Odawara or Tokyo or opt to spend the night in Mishima. The latter is ideal, if you plan to hike along the Old Shimoda Foot Highway the following day.
Guided Hike with ‘Hike Hakone Hachiri’
While you could technically do it as a solo hike, I do not recommend it, as you will miss out on many things that make this hike so intriguing. It is way too easy to miss a spot of historical significance, and you will not have the background information to fully understand what you see while hiking.
And of course, you will also not be able to communicate with the tea house owner Mr. Yamamoto as he only speaks Japanese. While this might seem like a small detail, hearing him talk about the Old Tokaido Highway and the tea house more than enhanced the entire experience. It affects how you perceive the hike and all the things you see along the way.
Due to these factors, having a knowledgeable hiking guide like Tony who also speaks Japanese makes hiking the Hakone Hachiri of the Old Tokaido Highway significantly more interesting and valuable.
Therefore, I can only encourage you to book it as a guided hike even if you are an experienced hiker.
There is a minimum requirement of two guides to book a guided hike. The prices for a direct booking start at 480 USD for 2 people, with an additional 50 USD per person for additional hikers. The price includes insurance.
Find out more about the guided day hike from Tokyo with ‘Hakone Hachiri’ here.
You can book your guided hike along the Old Tokaido Highway by sending a reservation inquiry to tonyeveritt@tokaido.blog or by booking it via GetYourGuide. Please note that there is a price difference as a direct booking includes amazake at the tea house and lunch, as well as the train and bus rides to the trailhead and from Yamanaka Castle to Mishima. Meanwhile, you have to pay these things yourself, if you book the hike via a platform.
Tony also offers a 5-day hiking tour during which you get to see different parts of the Izu Peninsula. The Old Tokaido Highway hike is on day 1 of the tour, followed by a hike along the Old Shimoda Foot Highway on day 2. While I did not hike along the trails you would tackle on days 3 to 5, I loved the first two hikes. So consider booking the tour if you love hiking and want to see more of what this extremely underrated area has to offer.
Things to know about Hiking the Hakone Hachiri
The Best Time to Hike
You can hike the Old Tokaido Highway year-round, which makes it a great activity regardless of when you visit Japan.
In summer, the area is usually around 5°C cooler than Tokyo, as Hakone is a mountainous area. This means, that summer is a great time for hiking. It is a great way to escape the heat in the city. However, the late summer typhoon season brings about rain, so be sure to check the local weather.
Given that the area is close to the Pacific Highway, there are often clouds. Therefore, you oftentimes will not have a clear view of Mt. Fuji. While hiking, Tony told me that it is covered by clouds on four of five days for most of the year, and I can confirm this to be the case in September.
If you dream of seeing the famous mountain as you walk along the shore of Lake Ashi and from the ruins of Yamanaka castle, winter is the best time. Thanks to the clear, cold winter air, you have a significantly higher chance of spotting the mountain.
However, you should keep in mind that you are at a higher altitude, which means you might encounter snow. This is particularly the case in February.
Difficulty
While the Hakone Hachiri section is longer, this hike along the remaining parts of the Old Tokaido Highway only has a length of 12 km. According to my estimations, the elevation gain is between 220 and 275 meters. Therefore, you have to be moderately fit, which means you should be able to hike longer distances with some steep inclines.
Once you leave Amazake Tea House, it takes around 5 hours before you reach the end point near Yamanaka Castle. This time includes a lunch break and a visit to the castle ruins.
If you are interested in hiking the entire length of the Hakone Hachiri, you should keep in mind that it has always been considered the first difficult section of the Old Tokaido Highway when coming from Edo (Tokyo). After all, Hakone is inside a volcanic caldera, so the road takes you up, then down to Hakone, before you have to walk up to the ridge again.
Odawara Post Town is located 10 meters above sea level, while the highest point of the hike is the Hakone Pass on the eastern ridge with a height of 846 meters. Meanwhile, Mishima Post Town is once again at a height of 25 m.
Hiking in the Rain
According to Tony, hiking the Old Tokaido Highway between Odawara and Mishima is a ‘walk in the park’ on sunny days. But on rainy days, the cobblestone road turns into an ice rink. The surface of the stones is very smooth, so stepping in the center of the stones is not an option unless you want to test how good your travel insurance is.
In order to stay on your feet, you have to place your feet where two stones meet. By doing so, the sides of the stones provide additional support and your feet are significantly less likely to slip and fall. Chances are, that you will feel like Bambi learning to walk all over again, but it is better than the alternative.
But even if you do so, using hiking poles is essential as it is only a matter of time before you step on a particularly slippery spot and gravity starts to work against you.
If possible, it is also a good option to walk beside the trail. For large sections, there is a flat mud area on at least one side, and at times, there is also the wide historic drainage that unexplainably is less slippery.
Hiking the Hakone Hachiri in the rain is certainly a different experience than hiking it on a sunny day, but it is worth it nonetheless. And remember: During the Edo period, people tackled this section in the rain while wearing straw sandals and carrying palanquins, so you can do it too.
Hiking Essentials for the Hakone Hachiri Section
hiking boots — hiking boots with ankle support are a must regardless of the season and weather. I was glad to have my Jack Wolfskin boots, as they were ideal for the versatile conditions of the hike.
weather-appropriate hiking clothes — be sure to look at the weather report before you hike. Generally speaking, the Hakone area is around 5°C colder than Tokyo, so bring a jacket even if it is warm and sunny. In autumn and winter, you should also have gloves and a hat.
hiking poles — After various hikes, I have to say that good hiking poles are essential when hiking in Japan.
water and snacks — While you pop into civilization several times throughout the hike, you should bring enough water for a 12 km hike as well as some snacks. Snacks are especially important if you have dietary restrictions.
first aid kit — While you technically do not have to bring one for a guided hike, it never hurts to bring it.
How to Get To the Trail
The Hakone Hachiri Hike can be done as a day trip from Tokyo, and if that is how you want to tackle the trail, you have to take an early Shinkansen from Tokyo to Odawara.
Hereby, the best choices are Kodama #709 which departs at 8:27 AM, or the slightly earlier Kodama #707 which departs Tokyo at 7:57 AM. The Shinkansen ride takes just over 30 minutes. I opted for the earlier one, as I had to drop off my luggage at the hotel.
After meeting with Tony at Odawara Station, we caught the train to Hakone-Yumoto [¥360; 15 min]. From there, one usually takes the Hakone Tozan bus to the Amazake Chaya stop [¥710; 23 min]. Due to a slight delay caused by dropping my luggage, we took a taxi, which cost approximately ¥3.200 (~21 USD).
You can look up the train and bus departure times on the Navitime website or app.
Where to Stay
While you can hike the Old Tokaido Highway as a day trip from Tokyo, I recommend spending more time in the area. After all, there are plenty of things to do in Hakone, as well as on the Izu Peninsula.
Given the starting point of the hike, I recommend spending the night ahead of the hike in Odawara if you do not want to get up early to catch the Shinkansen from Tokyo. It is also a great place to stay after hiking the Old Tokaido Highway if you want to explore the Hakone area in the following days.
Odawara is the train gateway to the area, so I recommend returning to the city so you can start using the 2- or 3-day Hakone Free Pass the following morning to get to Hakone.
If you want to stay in Odawara, I recommend the Toyoko Inn Odawara if you are looking for a nice, simple hotel close to the train station. The Tenseien Odawara Station Annex is another great option, as this hotel has an onsen.
Your hike ends in Mishima, so you could also easily spend a night there if you want to see more of the Izu Peninsula. Hotel Gee Haive is a great option and is close to Mishima Station.
Are you planning a trip?
Check out these useful websites and resources I use to plan my adventures around the world.
Is it worth it to hike the Old Tokaido Highway near Hakone?
To me, my day of hiking along the Hakone Hachiri section of the Old Tokaido Highway felt like a journey in three parts. I took the Shinkansen to Odawara in the morning on a path that follows the beginning of the historic route, followed by hiking along cobblestone sections of the actual road. And then, I also walked along the side of National Highway 1 which was built above the old road.
Therefore, this day and hike felt like a journey that combines the past and the present. It is a place where old and new are fused together in a unique way, and it is an experience that allows you to learn a lot about Japanese history while simultaneously enjoying nature.
I love history and nature, so I instantly knew that it would be the perfect hike for me. And I was not disappointed. Given that, I can only encourage you to include this hike in your itinerary if you also love adventure travel.
If you hike with a guide like Tony who can tell you more about what you are seeing, you will end the hike knowing more than you did before, and for me, that makes it one of the highlights of my time in Japan.
More about Japan
If you are planning a trip to the Hakone area, you might also be interested in these Japan travel guides:
Diving near Tokyo
Mt Io Hike in Hokkaido
Did you already know that you can still hike along an original section of the Old Tokaido Highway near Hakone?
Let me know in the comments!
Are you planning to hike the Old Tokaido Highway?
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